November 9, 2008– 6:30 PM – Marine Restaurant again.

Today was a pretty awesome day. We rented a car and drove around the Island of Samui. We got A 4x4 Suzuki Samurai and mobbed south. This time I decided to drive because the car is stick and I drive stick more than Kevin in SF so I figured it would be a good idea. A small problem was that the gear shifter is on your left hand side because you drive on the right side of the car. Another problem was that it was completely pouring rain.

Because of said rain the roads were flooded with about half a foot of water and when you splashed though it it would completely cover your windshield until the crappy wipers could clear your vision. Not good to be driving blind on the left side of a very narrow and flooded road with dump trucks heading at you.


We splashed our way around Koh Samui, did some back road touring, looked at a deserted beach, saw a water buffalo in a coconut orchard and then parked to walk down a jungle trail to a water fall that we never actually made it to because we got too wet and Kevin was having self created 'Nam flashbacks.

After a couple hours of driving we had made it almost completely around the small island in a clockwise circle. In the town of Na Thon we stopped to look at our map for a road that went into the mountains but couldn’t find it. Instead we took an alternate route up a mountain road farther around the island. The road was paved but laughably steep and our Samurai didn’t have enough power to get up the road. It died on the steepest part so I put it into four-low and we crawled higher and higher.

A few hundred feet up the road a toll guy told us that the road was closed because of the heavy rains so we went ahead to find a place to turn around and came to a part of the road that had death written all over it and was so steep we almost shit ourselves. Originally we had intended to sneak around the toll guy and forge ahead but after seeing how steep the road was we turned around. Kevin read that a lot of jeeps flip over in Samui and people die.

Going back down was pretty hairy as well but we made it slow and steady. Getting back to the place we rented the car from was another adventure. It was nearly impossible to tell where we were or what road to turn on because of the complete crap map we had. Crap maps are standard issue in Thailand but they're free so hey. Koh Samui has the worst. We did eventually make it back though.

So… We are staying one more night at a different and a little nicer hotel next door to our old one but will still be hanging out at the same bar at the old hotel with our people who work there. Headed out by ferry to the mainland and then BKK tomorrow.

Tonight we are going to hit the Reggae Bar and the Green Tortoise or something like that

November 10, 2008 – 11:20 AM – The second hotel in Koh Samui.

Just relaxing now in our room waiting for a cab to pick us up and take us to the ferry. We are heading back to Bangkok.

Last night was a fun night. Walked down the main street looking for some bars that we had heard about. I wanted to go to the Reggae Pub because it just sounded awesome. On the way to the pub Kevin saw a painting that he liked of the two old men from the Muppet Show. The Critics or something like that is what they're called. The painting dealer wanted 2,400 baht for it, Kevin offered him 1,000. No deal. I think the guy was probably insulted for being offered less than half. I have to pack my bags up now and will finish writing on the ferry.

2:00 PM – Ferry between Ko Samui and Surat Thani.

Kevin and I have hopped aboard the Ferry. It is about 75 feet long and holds about 150 people.

Anyways, I really need to write about last night. About that “original art” for 2,400 baht that Kevin wanted… well, two stores down they had the exact same painting for 1,400. Kevin really wanted it but didn’t get it.

We kept walking and walking looking for the Reggae Pub and eventually saw a sign that pointed us in the right direction. The street that led up to the pub was completely lined with about fifty brothels and as we walked down it every single one of the 500 girls working the street tried to catch our attention. I would like to say that they were attracted to us because we were so handsome and radiated charm but I think they just wanted our money.

As we made it though the girls we came to the pub. It was a huge place and was constructed to hold about 300 people but because it is the rainy season there was only us and a group of drunk Chinese kids.

The band at the Reggae Pub was pretty freaking hilarious. It was made up of a group of five or so Thai guys playing American songs like Shaggy's, It Wasn’t Me, various Sublime songs and the always popular Will Smith’s, Getting Jiggy With it. Again, as in Chiang Mai, they didn’t completely know the lyrics to the songs, just mimicked the sounds. Crazy.

A lot of things in Thailand that mimic western or American things are like that, the same but not quite right. Cover songs by bands, even cover songs by Thais on bar CD players or pizza at an Italian restaurant, just not quite right. French fries are pretty on point though. Anyways, that’s how it is and you shouldn’t need that stuff over here anyways although sometimes it is good to get something familiar. Problem is you can’t get it even if you try. Just not quite right.

Eventually we moved on from the pub and headed back across the lagoon thing that divides the town and came upon a flea market or night bazaar. This was authentic Thai and I only saw a couple of other western people here. Vendors were selling various flea market goods like clothes and art things and food. Oh, also real crossbows.

As we were walking Kevin veered off and came back to me saying that he had found it… bugs for sale… that you eat. He had a bag in his hand of basically the sampler platter of the bug stands bug dining selection. Kevin started off by chomping a dragonfly on a stick. I personally enjoy eating new and interesting cuisines but couldn’t bring myself to eat a bug. After much convincing and and after learning Kevin’s technique, which is, "don’t think about it," I broke down and tried a nice juicy fried meal worm. It was kind of squishy as I chewed it and had an earthy flavor, sort of like a crispy mushroom in texture and taste with some Mansmiths or Pappies grillin' seasoning on it. I also tried a large cricket, about an inch long with legs included and Kevin finished off the night with a specially purchased, two inch long, biggest roach I have ever seen. When you eat a bug the wings aren’t that easy to swallow. They are sort of the last thing that remains in your mouth and you have to chew them for awhile.




That’s about it for last night, took a quick walk back to our room and passed out. Should be in Bangkok by tomorrow at 10:00 AM after we transfer to a night train in Surat Thani following this ferry.

November ?, 2008 – 12:20 PM – Khao San Road restaurant, BKK.

We are at the restaurant with the three dirty little kittens. One just got kicked by a suit dealer.

I have finished my pad thai and am waiting for Kevin to finish his fish burger. In Thailand they are not good at, or it doesn’t matter to them I guess, if your food comes out at the same time as the persons food who you are eating with. You get it when it is ready, you may even get your main course before your salad, etc.

Anyways, yesterday was a travel day and night by train and ferry up from Koh Samui. The train was really dirty and we got into BKK really early, 6:00 AM, didn’t get much sleep on the train so we went to a hotel near Khoa San Road, the New Siam II, and crashed for a couple of hours.

We actually don’t know the date today so depending on that we will either go see the royal palace or drink beers all day. Life is hard.

P.S. Not as many dogs here, more cats. Right now at the restaurant a little orange one is eating his puke next to our table.

November 11, 2008 – 10:37 AM – New Siam II.

It is breakfast time at the New Siam II. Both of us are not feeling so hot from last night but I think I am in a little better shape then Kevin. Khao San Road is a pretty crazy place to party.

Before I recap yesterday I have to mention that right now on my head is one of the worst haircuts I have ever had. I woke up early and got it at a massage parlor. I look like Kim Jung Ill. Somehow I will have to find a decent barber to fix this mess but finding quality in Thailand is hard to do. If I ask a cabby or a tuk tuk driver he'll take me to his uncle's shop or the place that gives him a kick back for taking me there. The haircut was only three dollars though so what should I expect, probably a haircut that looks like it cost three dollars.

Speaking of shady tuk tuk drivers… Kevin and I had planned on seeing the Royal Palace in Bangkok today so we walked across the central parade ground towards it. On the way there a guy came up to us and started making conversation. He said that he was a student at the university and started to give us some suggestions on sights that we should see while in town because the Palace was closed today. I was not suspicious because I had read in our trusty Rough Guides guidebook that Thai students enjoy talking to English speakers so that they can practice their English skills. I had also read about the scam that was about to go down on us but I had forgotten about it at the time.

Basically, without going into too much detail because it really wasn't that big of deal or waste of time, the guy suggested that we go see some sights and drew their locations on the map in our book. The last one he added was an apparently famous silk dealer.

Once we decided to go with our new friends suggestions instead of the Palace a tuk tuk conveniently rolled up and said it would take us to all the sights, A.K.A. wats, for only forty baht. After we had seen the first sight, a 150-year-old Buddha statue, our cabby asked us to wait in the tuk tuk while he used the bathroom. A Thai man conveniently hanging out at the spot the cabby parked started talking to us and asking how our vacation was going and said that when he visits Bangkok he always goes to the Armani factory store that sells Armani suits for cheap, just without the labels. At that point we realized that this ride was a scam and decided that if the driver took us to a few more sights and we had to say no to a few suit salesmen that it would still be alright, maybe worth it to see some things off the beaten path.

So in the end we saw a 150-year-old Buddha, an “Armani” store, a 100 foot tall Buddha and a jewelry store. Kevin bought some fine soaps.

After the tuk tuk tour we walked to a wat with a view of the city at sunset. It was called the Golden Mount. On the way there we saw a lady selling bugs again so we bought some. I have to say that they aren’t bad tasting. Of course I’d had a beer or two before eating them each time but not bad. I recommend the lemon grass ant trail mix.

Anyways, on the way to the wat we walked through a Thai street market/carnival with all the usual Thai eats, cold sausage on sticks sitting out in the elements, and also some pea shooter shooting ranges and a ferris wheel.

We walked up about 20 stories of stairs and got to the top of the Golden Mount Wat and saw a really nice view of Bangkok. People were praying and enjoying the view.
We caught a tuk tuk when we were done and choked our way through the exhaust fumes back to Khao San Road.

Back at Khao San Road we hit the bar and met two Scottish chicks, Daniel, a police officer, and Sarina, a Virgin Atlantic stewardess. We didn’t convert however. Got too drunk and couldn’t understand them through their accents by the end of the night. I went home and Kevin had a crazy adventure that you will have to ask him about.

Today we are going to try and make it to the Royal Palace again. We'll make it for sure this time.

November 11, 2008 – 3:00 PM – New Siam II.

We just got back from touring the Royal Palace. I almost couldn’t believe it but there was also a wat in there too. The Palace was pretty impressive. Tons of work must have gone into it and every building is very intricately detailed.

We saw and emerald Buddha that we can’t remember how old it was but it had been stolen and won back in wars with the Vietnamese. Take a look at the pictures, they’re cool.






Also checked out the Kings weapons arsenal. Lots of old guns like Colts and Lugers that were actually given to the King of Thailand by Samuel Colt himself and also some swords.

We walked back from the Palace down a side street through another authentic Thai market and I bought some Buddha statues for souvenirs. Two big Buddhas and two tiny ones. So, it may sound like there is not a lot to see in Thailand other than wats and markets and this is probably true. The wats are all very impressive to look at but you do start to get a little tired of them. We have also walked through a lot of markets but I haven’t gotten tired of them in the least because there are so many weird and interesting things for sale selling to look at. You can’t get bored.

We also watched the army practice for a princess’s funeral. That’s it, it was a good day, don’t know what we’ll do next.

SPECIAL BONUS SECTION: INTERESTING THAI CULTURAL OBSERVATIONS.

-At a restaurant if the waiter asks you if you are ready to order and you say that you are not, the waiter will stand and stare at you until you make a selection. No pressure, hurry!
-You always have to ask for your bill, always.
-Waiters also stare at you while you count your money for the bill. They stand and wait. This never happens in the US so you don't notice it but you will when you feel how awkward it is when it happens in Thailand.
-No paper towels to dry your hands in the bathrooms. When you do get a paper towel it is really small and disintegrates when you get a drop of water on it. Try blowing your nose.

-No flushing TP down toilets. That detachable dish sprayer that you have in your kitchen sink, exact same thing that you are supposed to wash your vital bits with here.

-No tipping… we think.
-Lots of old whities with Thai women.
-Same Same. What does that mean?
-Yellow shirts, we need one.
-Assorted animals are always around when you are eating, always.
-You bargain for everything here but we still manage to get ripped off.

November 12, 2008 – 11:00 AM – New Siam II.

In the original handwritten version of this journal entry there is a sticker stuck on the page that we got stuck on our shirts when we went to Thai kick boxing last night. What this sticker means is that you are a dumb foreigner and you paid way too much for your ticket. It was 1,800 baht. The people sitting next to us told us that they paid 1,600 baht for the exact same seat. Everything is negotiable. Whatever, it’s all good.

Boxing in BKK is a much bigger event than in Chiang Mai. Bigger dudes and a bigger stadium. The crowd really gets into it and cheers every time a punch or knee is landed. It was a cool experience.


Today Kevin and I are going to do something we should have done long ago… get yellow shirts. Every Thai person you see on the street is wearing one but we cannot find out where they sell them. We have seen everything else for sale but not the yellow shirts. We're also going to Jim Thompson’s house and then tonight it is the full moon festival. Don't know exactly what that is but it is supposed to be epic. I’ll let ya know.

November 12, 2008 – 5:30 PM – New Siam II.

Another busy day in Bangkok. Today we went down to MBK Mall. It is a giant place with about eight floors that are about a mile long each with thousands of stores on each floor. I bought another Buddha and a couple of shirts. Kevin bought five. His whole wardrobe at home is going to be Thai beer shirts. MBK Mall was pretty intense and over stimulation fatigue quickly became a factor so we took refuge in a familiar place for lunch. McDonald's. Kevin and I both got a number ten, the Big Mac combo. It was just like in the US. Kevin also bought me a shrimp patty, a Thai McDonald's specialty. Just a bunch of shrimp squished together flat in a deep fried battered patty. Pretty tasty.


After the mall we decided to take a tuk tuk to Jim Thompson’s house. Jim Thompson was a famous American silk trader here in the 1960’s that opened up the Thai silk trading market to the world. Apparently he made a bunch of money doing this and built a traditional Thai house on stilts in Bangkok. He also mysteriously disappeared sometime in the 60’s. His house is pretty cool, lots of Buddhas and art and nice furniture, etc.


I forgot to mention something funny about our trip to the house. We got ripped off by a tuk tuk driver. We had no idea how far the house was from the mall so when a tuk tuk driver said 100 baht it sounded all right. Plus, our brains were a little fried from the crazy mall and our logic skills may have not been functioning at full capacity. Anyways, we agreed to 100 and started to laugh as we drove up to the house across right across the street from the malls and down a short alley,. Should have been like 10 baht. Fuck.


After enjoying Jim Thompson’s silk house we took another smoggy ride back to the hotel. Right now I am drinking my first tall Singha of the day. That is good. The festival is tonight, I don’t know what to expect.

P.S. No yellow shirts yet.


Here's a pic of Kevin practicing his full moon festival moves for the ladies.